The Ins and Outs of A Proper Fitting Bra
You have felt the discomfort of a poor fitting bra... the pokes, the rashes, the sore neck, the shoulder indentations... the pain!
75 - 80% of our new customs come into SILVER LINING wearing the wrong size bra. Are you one of those statistics? The first signs of an improper fit are discomfort and the look of your clothing. Your clothing... does a third "boob" appear through your top from wires poking out or from your cup running over? Has your waistline all but disappeared because of the "blended look"... breasts blend with waist?
The following SILVER LINING guidelines will help you determine what to look for in an ideal fitting bra. You will also find a "how to" for measuring correctly. First things first though, you are the size you are. Make the most of it. The right size bra will be comfortable and you will look your best in clothing. Buy the bra you need, not the bra you would like to be.
Problems to solve so you will look and feel your best:
- The bra frame or band is too big, does not snugly hug the chest wall underneath the breasts. When a band is loose, it is suspended by the bra straps and shifts with movement, therefore it cannot support the weight of the breasts. This puts the burden of support on the straps, which are generally designed to adjust height of the bust. If the straps are tightened too much when the band is loose, the bra rides up in the back and the straps cut into the shoulders.
- The cups are too small... there is not enough coverage. What results is the breasts spilling out under the arm, or falling out the bottom of the cups when the arms are raised, or "pillowing" at the top of the cup which looks lumpy in tops.
- Cups are too big when they are not fully filled out by the breasts. When this happens, the bra cups wrinkle and create a noticeable, unattractive impression in the top of your clothing.
Solutions so you will look and feel your best:
- The place to start is with the bra band. The correct size is determined by measuring right under the bust. If this number falls between inches, round up to the larger size.
- When trying a bra on, fasten the closure in the middle set of hooks, never the tightest. The fit should feel comfortable when you stand and sit down. Once you have determined the right band size, stick to it. Do not go up or down in this around size in order to make the cups fit.
- Properly fitted cups should fit all around the breasts, from top to bottom and from under the arm to the center of your chest. Coverage in the front should be as complete as you want to compliment your outfit, without falling out when you lean over. If the cups pucker or wrinkle, try on a smaller letter size. If your cup runneth over at the top, sides, or bottom, try the next larger letter size. Again, do not change the band or inches size as a way to get the cups to fit.
- Straps should be wide enough so they do not dig into your shoulders. They should be tight enough to raise the bust to a comfortable level at or above the bend in your elbow. If adjusted properly, straps will be less likely to slip off the shoulders. If strap slippage is a problem, look for straps that are attached close to the back hook closure.
- Underwires are the subject of much debate... support vs. comfort. The wires are used to stiffen the band, and to improve support and shape. Like clothing, underwires come in sizes. They should be short enough not to poke under the arm but long enough to hug the body and encircle the sides and bottom of the breast. The underwire between the breasts should lie flat against the sternum or should be able to be placed there when putting your finger on the front center of the bra and pressing.
Buying the Best Bra for You:
- Most women have one breast that is larger than the other. Buy a bra to fit this larger side.
- When shopping for a bra, wear a top that easily shows the lines of the bra and shows the shape the bra gives you. Do you like the way you look... the projection, the roundness, the uplift, etc.
- As part of the test for comfort and fit, sit down in the bra. Does it poke under the arm? Does it press against your stomach? If it has an underwire, does it poke out between your breasts? Will you be comfortable in it at work?
- If you are buying a special type of bra for a particular dress or outfit, bring that dress with you. Once you have found the bra that fits, try it on with that dress. Are you getting the flattering look you want?
- If possible, own more than one or two bras. They will last longer. In addition to owning more than a couple of bras, you should own more than one style of bra. Different looks in clothing require different styles of foundations.
What Size Am I... Really?
- When measuring yourself for the correct bra band size, use a cloth tape measure. Place the tape around your back and under your bust. If this number is an even number, this will be the band size. If it is an odd number, add 1" for the band size.
- Now measure your bust at the fullest part. The cup size is determined by subtracting the band size measurement from the larger bust measurement. For every 1" of difference, add a letter starting with "A".
The following chart should help:
| Difference: | 2" | 3" | 4" | 5" | 6" | 7" | 8" | 9" | 10" |
| Cup Size: | B | C | D | DD | DDD | F | G | H | I |
Now you know what bra size to ask for when you go shopping. Remember though, as in shopping for shoes or clothing, this is just the beginning!